The Periodical Hromadyanka (1946–1950) as a platform for fashion trends for Ukrainian women in Germany

The article examines the representation of fashion in the pages of the periodical Hromadyanka (1946–1950) — the press organ of the Union of Ukrainian Women in Emigration (OUZh) in Augsburg, preserved in the collections of the Professor Lubomyr Wynar Institute for Ukrainian Diaspora Studies and the Museum-Archive of Press by Vakhtang Kipiani. The article explores the role of fashion in the women’s periodical Hromadyanka as a tool of support, adaptation, and cultural preservation for Ukrainian women in displaced persons (DP) camps after World War II. It is emphasized how Hromadyanka responded to the practical needs of its audience through columns like “Lear­ning to Sew” and “Fashion Page,” offering step-by-step guides for clothing creation and adaptation amid severe resource shortages. The study underscores the journal’s cultu­ral significance in promoting the integration of traditional Ukrainian embroidery into modern clothing, thereby reinforcing national identity in exile. Articles that addressed global fashion trends, such as reviews of Christian Dior’s New Look, demonstrate how Hromadyanka connected the Ukrainian diaspora to international style movements, offering a blend of practicality and aesthetic aspiration. The educational function of the journal is highlighted through its efforts to enhance women’s skills, particularly via the publication of A Guide to Cutting and Sewing by Ivanna Dytsio-Melnyk. This initiative, though met with mixed critical reception, reflected the journal’s commitment to equipping women with professional expertise critical for self-reliance and adaptation in challenging circumstances. The article also explores Hromadyanka’s role in foste­ring emotional resilience and self-esteem among women. In DP camps, where life was marked by austerity, the journal encouraged women to find solace in creative pursuits, such as sewing and repurposing old garments, as articulated in articles by prominent figures like Iryna Pavlykivska. The journal became a platform for women to engage in self-expression, asserting their agency through style and tradition even in adversity. By analyzing 18 fashion-related publications from Hromadyanka, the study identifies the periodical as a cultural bridge between Ukrainian heritage and contemporary global trends. It demonstrates how fashion became a medium of adaptation, identity, and integ­ration for Ukrainian women navigating the complexities of post-war exile.

Keywords: women’s periodical Hromadyanka (1946–1950), clothing design and sewing, fashion, Union of Ukrainian Women in Emigration, fashion journalism, Ivanna Dytsio-Melnyk, DP camps, Augsburg.

doi: 10.32403/0554-4866-2024-2-88-201-211